After three flights and a lengthy stop over, I couldn't help but worry uVolunteer didn't actually exist or that my suitcase wouldn't even arrive. 
Program Volunteer Bolivia
Project: Volunteer in Animal Conservation - Zoo in Bolivia
However after meeting Pablo, the local coordinator, I was instantly put at ease and any worries or fears I may have had quickly disappeared while driving to the volunteer house.
The roads in Bolivia seemed even crazier than anywhere else I had visited but even more chaotic. On the 30 minute drive to the volunteer house I learnt everything I would need to know about Bolivia's cultures from Pablo. Meeting the four other volunteers, Helen, Jo, Jesse and Martin and Esparanza was about all I could manage before finding my bed.
On the first morning I was woken bright and early by my new alarm, the local cockerel.
Braving the roads again, I made it to the zoo and while waiting for the vet to arrive to assign me some work, the concept of Bolivian time was explained to me by Kattia. The concept? That nobody is ever on time and it is usual to be a few hours late! The next day (in true Bolivian style) I ran on "Bolivian" time and arrived two hours late, (unintentionally I might add!) A handy tip for volunteers catching buses to their placement: know the route and also know how to ask for the bus to stop, "pare por favor." The buses have to stay on schedule and do so by rocketing down the streets and braking like race drivers, which leads to endless horn hitting and angry drivers but a fun, if slightly scary, ride.
1st week:
After my first few days, I made it safely to and from the zoo with ease and managed to fill the time with amazing work. I helped out with cleaning duties and helped prepare and feed most of the animals. Being an aspiring vet, I chose to work more in the quarantine area. This gave me the best memories from the trip; looking after a sloth and its baby, hand feeding a baby monkey and, my favourite, stroking some Jaguars.
Visiting the local market with Martin and Jo, the Ramada, was a completely different world. Here, there were no restraints, and there seemed to be everything for sale: from pirate DVD's, to fresh meat, to every kind of electrical item you could think of.
As I was filled in later there is some extreme weather in Bolivia, after getting burned on my first day, while being lost, it chucked it down all night mid week, and though most the roads were flooded traffic still kept running although the zoo apparently didn't. The Zoo was full of friendly workers and although I spoke little Spanish we managed to interpret each other quite well and we sat about drinking cane juice, bananas and bread while it poured outside.
In the afternoons I received Spanish lessons from Pablo and these were very helpful in getting by for simple tasks.
While in Bolivia I ate some of the strangest foods I had ever seen; from chicken feet soup at the zoo, to deep fried breaded banana with cheese. (Although apparently that is Brazilian cuisine.)
As it was Christmas during my stay and there were four other volunteers staying at Theresa's house we decided to do secret Santa between us, (Theresa, Paulio and Pablo) which ended in going to a birthday party for Theresa's friend and drinking far to much tequila. The fun didn't stop there, as we then went onto salsa dancing with Pablo, with a live band at pueblo Viejo.
As the other volunteers were working at the orphanage on Christmas eve I decided to help deliver the many presents that they had been bought by Helen. The kids were so sweet and friendly and after spending such a short time with them, I realised how fulfilling helping out at the orphanage could be.
The proper Christmas celebrations came on Christmas Eve when we were invited to Theresa's parents for dinner, and watched her two very cute and excitable nephews open all their presents. The highlight was watching the midnight firework displays from the roof of the building, which had the benefit of a 360-degree view of everybody in the Santa Cruz area lighting their fireworks all in one go! Unlike the in the UK, Christmas is celebrated on Christmas Eve, so it was back to Pueblo Viejo for celebratory drinks and then onto partying on a small precinct with the locals. To watch the sunrise we all headed down to the river for a fantastic view, which resulted in a truly memorable Christmas day.
2nd week:
After an eventful Christmas morning Jesse had to catch a bus to La Paz to get his next flight, however during the previous night Jo had suggested a road trip. After researching hire cars, (and falling asleep in the internet café!) we decided, (Martin, Jo and I,) would go with Jesse on the bus to La Paz. After the 17hour bus journey to La Paz the view from the top of the city was a worthwhile reward. The three sister peaks of the Andes was amazing and seeing snow on boxing day, however far away, was fabulous for an English girl at Christmas.
The streets of La Paz are a complete maze without a map, but the markets are extremely fun the higher you go up: ice cream carts patrol the corners serving up slightly melted cones, but a welcome sugar rush in the altitude. Although La Paz maybe the capital, its prices definitely don't reflect it and everyone is open to bargaining, including the hotel. The museums in La Paz are extensive; from the history of currency to headdresses. I found the famous museo de coca fascinating, as it informs you about every detail of the coca leaf in a variety of different languages.
After trekking to the top of the city and becoming extremely nauseated and out of breath, the view of the valley city was breathtaking. However by taking an hour bus ride out of town, to the posher area (which even had golf course?!), we got to view the Luna valley. The valley was a weird collection of eroded rocks and spikes on which a Bolivian man was standing to play some flute and guitar to a small audience, a truly surreal view.
After a cheap dinner we went to the local Gringo bar where the entertainment was Afro- Bolivian music a completely new sound!
After so much city we took the three hour bus journey to Copacabana on Lake Titicaca, Bolivia's only public beach, but definitely nothing like the infamous Brazil beach. After Jo was stopped by immigration on the lake for not having her passport on her, we escaped with a warning. Lake Titicaca holds 2 small islands, Isla del sol and Isla del Luna, and we took a tiny boat to the former with amazing views of the Andes in the background. Climbing a small hill at 4000m seemed more like a 5mile trek to the lungs, and a cold beer was welcome. The tiny village of Copacabana is a huge pilgrimage site and the church was absolutely phenomenal, as was the blessing of the cars. However this part of Bolivia seemed to be the residing place of most of the hippies and gringos that travelled to Bolivia, and was quite touristy compared to Santa Cruz. Although the hostel we stayed in was very clean and friendly, it wasn't prepared for the storm that night and the next morning we were left with no showers for a few hours and then only cold water. The bus back to La Paz was stormy and I was relieved to have my seat in the middle of the bus, unlike Martin who was up front with the driver, who later declared it was more terrifying than any rollercoaster! The second bus back to Santa Cruz was quite eventful, being as we were stopped twice by the police to be searched and for the cases to be sniffed out by the drug dogs. Although nothing was found, the hush on the bus indicated some fear of the police and the photocopy of my passport was clearly not really enough identification to go travelling around the country.
We arrived back in Santa Cruz just in time for some last minute present buying for the folks back home and one last drink at pueblo Viejo, my new local.
My time in Bolivia was an amazing experience and I would definitely do it again given the chance. I confronted a lot of my fears while I was there, riding on tiny boats to being only one of the many that I overcame. The sight of lightening flashing up the whole night sky while travelling across the country, was one I will never forget. The poverty I encountered was impressionable and although the sight of many homeless families was severely upsetting, it has definitely spurred me on to do more volunteer work in the future. The most memorable experience for me has to be hand feeding the baby monkey and stroking the jaguars. I will never forget my Christmas in Bolivia and can't wait for next year's adventure.
Felicity Carter
